Ashland was a lovely, short stay. The inland detour brought a welcome change—swapping the cool, misty coast for the heat of southern Oregon—but today marked the beginning of my return home. I backtracked from Ashland to Grant’s Pass, then pointed my car toward Crescent City, ready to greet the redwoods and the cooler coastal air again.

I checked out of my Airbnb in Vancouver, WA and crossed the bridge back toward Portland. I wanted to stop in the Pearl District and find a dog-friendly spot for brunch. A few years ago, I’d been to this amazing farm-to-table restaurant with outdoor seating and incredible food, and I thought maybe I’d stumble upon it again. If not, I had a backup in Slabtown that I’d bookmarked.

When I pulled into my Airbnb yesterday, I didn’t know what to expect. The listing looked nice enough in photos, and at $360 for three nights—with laundry and a kitchen included—it felt like a good deal. But the place was right off a main road, and the area itself felt a little sketchy. Still, I wasn’t planning to go anywhere for the next few days. I wanted rest, groceries, and a reset.

After a few days of hotels, waterfront walks, and catching up with old friends, Day six was about reality. Laundry, car washes, errands, and figuring out where to land next.

Ashley had collected another army of bugs on the drive from Bend to Vancouver, WA, so before leaving the hotel on the waterfront, I went in search of a self-serve car wash. Vancouver has a beautiful new waterfront area, but once I drove around the neighborhoods, I wasn’t impressed. The city felt stuck somewhere between the ’70s and ’90s—flat land, tired strip malls, dead grass, and little in the way of charm. No Whole Foods, no inviting local restaurants, nothing that made me feel like I could see myself there.