Day 34: Playing in the Forest with Giants

Yesterday was bliss. I stayed tucked away in my Airbnb haven—catching up on laundry, cooking simple meals in that huge kitchen, taking long hot showers, and even playing fetch with Max inside the spacious king studio. We curled up with Netflix in the evening, and for a moment, life felt wonderfully still. It truly was “home away from home.”

But today, I knew I couldn’t just hide indoors. Crescent City is known for the redwoods, and I didn’t want to leave without at least trying to experience them.

I’d done a little research yesterday and discovered something surprising: Redwood National and State Parks aren’t like Yosemite or Yellowstone with a single grand entrance. Instead, they stretch across nearly 50 miles of northern California coastline, with scattered visitor centers as gateways. The closest one to me was the Hiouchi Visitor Center, just a short 16-minute drive away. Since it was Labor Day, I made sure to head out before they closed early at 4 p.m.

Labor Day already. Somehow that realization jolted me—September always feels like a turning point, when the rest of the year seems to rush by. Soon it will be the holidays, then 2026. This year has slipped by so fast. And this month, I’ll celebrate a milestone birthday. Looking back, I realize this whole trip has turned into an unplanned celebration of that—my own way of shaking up the routines that had begun to feel so suffocating.

Back on Highway 199, I found myself actually enjoying the winding road this time, rather than just pushing through like yesterday. At the visitor center, I asked about dog-friendly areas and learned that options were slim. Dogs aren’t allowed on most trails—just on certain roads that double as walking paths. A little disappointing, but also a reminder of how much this trip has been shaped by Max. And truthfully, I wouldn’t want it any other way.

We headed to Walker Road, a spot I’d driven past before and had to carefully backtrack to reach. Pulling over on 199 is no easy feat—fast drivers, few turnouts, and lots of blind corners—but eventually we made it.

And it was worth it. Towering redwoods surrounded us, the air damp and earthy, sunlight filtering in patches through the canopy. Max trotted happily, nose to the ground, tail wagging as he discovered the scents of the forest. I snapped photos, tried to take it all in—the size, the silence, the timelessness of it. For a little while, it felt like we were exactly where we were supposed to be.

Now I feel satisfied. Tomorrow I’ll head south, making my way closer to Mendocino—a place I’ve dreamed of visiting for years but never managed to reach. Knowing I’ve at least walked among the redwoods, even briefly, makes me feel ready to move on.